Tuesday, 24 February 2015

Ko Gyi Kyaw Nat Festival : Nats and Nagadaws


It seems that Ko Gyi Kyaw was a real person who lived in the village of Pakhan Ngae. Unfortunately for him, someone told King Anawrahata that he was a rival so, naturally, King Anawrahata had him killed. After this, Ko Gyi Kyaw became a nat.
We walked along quietly wondering what the day would hold. Would nagadaws be dancing or maybe they would not start for a day or two.  A nagadaw is the human wife of a nat and they dance to a traditional orchestra of drums and pipes to please him. When the dancing heats up the nagadaw goes into a trance and it is then said that the nat is speaking through her.
Old people, or those who are incapacitated in some way, sat beside the path hoping the visitors would put something in their bowl. Many of them were lepers without fingers or even hands, just a stump of a wrist. The saddest of all was a woman who was blind as well.

We reach lots of little stalls on both sides of the path. Many sellers go to one festival after another throughout the year: they rent a space, set up shop and then take it down at the end of the pwe. Had we wished, we could have bought all kinds of farming implements, toys, clothes, fabric and little metal cups and plates to take home and put on the house nat altars.



Nagadaws

Photos by Win Kyaing

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