The
lady owner of the Garden Hotel in Mandalay always knows of festivals that even
the Tourist Bureau doesn’t know. And so
it is today that we are driving 25 kilometres from Mandalay first along the main
highway and then the Sagaing-Myitngoe Road to visit the newly opened Wei Raw Sa Na Jade Pagoda. The drive itself is worth taking as it is shaded
by huge trees - some in full scarlet bloom.
The jade pagoda dedicated to the
Buddha fulfills the dream of a benefactor who has planned and saved for this over
25 years. Companies have helped too, for example from Europe came 300,000 Euro. More than five tonnes of jade decorate the
pagoda both inside and out.
I am quite surprised to see the
pagoda is still under scaffolding. Later I learn why. I am also surprised to
see that jade comes in many colours as varied as amethyst mauve and topaz
yellow. Each of the four Buddha images enthroned at the cardinal points have been
carved in jade of different hues. The most beautiful in my view is the almost
white grey shading to green. Behind each Buddha’s head, rather resembling a
halo, jade as pale as paper has been carved with words of the Buddha’s
teaching.
Now I know why the scaffolding is
still in place. Yesterday, some government officials and important Buddhist
monks supervised the installation of the hti
or umbrella that tops every Myanmar pagoda. It is many metres above the ground
and the hti with its precious cargo
must at first be supported. It is usual for the hti to hold costly jewels and much gold donated by those who can
afford it. Here the space left for the pinnacle contains only jade and more
jade.
The temperature in Mandalay is sky-high,
but so are the spirits of the many worshippers who have helped make the dream of
a jade pagoda come true. Whole families stop to admire the many medallions
embedded in the walls each showing different events in the Buddha’s life. They will return to this magnificent pagoda
perhaps several times a year to give thanks to the Buddha for something beneficial
that has happened to them and to ask for his help in the year ahead.
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