From Pyay (also noted
on the map as Pyu). We set off early, intending to reach Loikaw the capital of
Kayar State that afternoon. “You’ll be there by midnight or anyway by 10
o’clock” said a helpful man. As by 8.00pm it is dark, we thought we might not
make it that night after all. We would stay somewhere en route. But there are
very few hotels on that route let alone hotels that have a license to take
foreigners.
Another helpful man told us that the shortest route we could
take, is not allowed to be taken, because due to ‘misunderstandings’ there is
often fighting between the armies.
It didn’t look far on the map and we were in good
spirits as we climbed the Bago Yoma. Little did we know what was to come.
The
map gave no hint of a mountain, let alone a mountain range, let alone several
mountain ranges. The view was magnificent and terrifying in equal portions.
After Win Kyaing had driven for more than 11 hours we
descended the last range and reached Pin Aung in Southern Shan State. Although
it was only a two-hour drive (so we were told and we wait to confirm this) we
decided to be ‘sensible’ and stay the night. The fact that Wine Wine Hotel had no air conditioning, we guessed it was cool all year round: indeed I wore a
cardigan to go out to dinner, unimaginable only a few hours before
We agreed to leave Pin Aung early in case there were another
few mountain ranges that our informants had not factored into the two-hour
drive. We shall see.
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