Pampet, a Padaung village in Kayah State

Pampet, a Padaung village, is about an hour from Loikaw in Kayah State. The Padaung women are famous for the many brass rings they wear which elongate their neck considerably. Brass is made from an alloy of copper and zinc. However there is much more to the village as we found out. The chief (who is elected by the people) met us at a junction and advised as to what we should take to give to the villagers. He does not want them spoiled by money, so suggests we take ten bottles of cooking oil and washing detergent. We also take exercise books and pens for the village primary school. Pencils are not so useful, we learn. They are only used until Standard 2. After that it’s pens.

We take two of the glasses kindly provided by Raksha. They are well received, as they are everywhere we go. However, I miss an opportunity! At the end of our walk around the village I am introduced to the oldest woman who is 79. I should have kept one pair of glasses to give to her as the oldest inhabitant – I will know better next time!

We drive along a valley where in places the vegetation reminds me of the New Forest in England. In other places Lantana reminds me of Australia. I remember how hard it is to get rid of in my Queensland garden! It is thriving here too, but at least has not taken over.

The villagers’ farms stretch down both sides of the dirt road with plenty of room for buffalo, pigs and cows in between. There is an age stipulation set as to how many years old cattle must be before they can be slaughtered. Apparently cows may change hands many times, making their owners a little money each time, before they eventually end up on the butcher’s block.

Well into the distance, spreading over terraces, padi is layering the contours of the land. It reminds me of the rice terraces in Bali and it glistening after last night’s rain.

In addition to mango trees and bamboo that crane over somewhat smaller banana palms, there are trees that remind me of caster oil plants. They are jessu that people were compelled to grow to produce bio-diesel, but we have never heard that it actually produces any.

Pumpkins, cucumber, chillies and beans are scrambling over each other.  

Here they are growing a crop that I’ve not encountered before. It resembles sweet corn and sugar cane though looks taller and slimmer than either. I learn it is corn, but not the cob variety. They plant in May and harvest it eight months later. The cattle and pigs receive the leaves and stems and the women winnow the small tassels to remove the husks. They cook and eat the grain in much the same way they do rice and there is another use to which they put it that pleases all who try it. They make alcoholic khaung yee. They put some of the grain into an earthenware pot then pour over boiling water. They leave it to cool for half an hour. After this they siphon off the liquid and drink it. The first brew is quite potent. The next and final four times they repeat the brew, it is still alcoholic, but less and less potent!