The Water Buffalo Nat Pwe Spirit Festival Part 1,

The Water Buffalo Nat Pwe Spirit Festival Part 1,

Today we attended the first day of the Water Buffalo Nat Pwe Spirit Festival in Sin Sein village, near Myaing in Magwe Division.

In the 13^th century the then king of Bagan, King Anawratha, was converted to Buddhism but he did not command his people to give up their spirit worship, which is much older than Buddhism. Consequently there are several nat pwe in various parts of Myanmar during the year. Some nats like Ko Myo Shin from Shan State and Ko Gyi Kyaw from Magwe Division are male and others like Amay Yea Yin (the middle statue) are female. Respects will be paid to each at the pwe.

I knew King Anawratha had been killed by a buffalo, but did not know the story behind it as was told to us today. Apparently, one day King Anawratha cut out a large chunk of a toddy palm tree – which bears a slight resemblance to the head of a buffalo. The toddy tree nat was incensed. He did not understand why the King would do this to his tree and he vowed he would kill the king. After a few years the toddy tree nat turned into Phoe Min Gyi, the Buffalo nat. One day, word got around inside the palace that there was a wild buffalo roaming around and everyone should be careful. The king was not careful enough and the Buffalo tossed him on its horns and killed him.  Ko Myo Sin from Shan State eventually tracked down the Buffalo and was able to control him, which is the reason for the celebration of the Buffalo Nat today.

We arrive at the stage assembled by the villagers. At one end are the village musicians. They beat drums of various sizes, clash cymbals, trumpet on a horn and, best of all a young man is playing hauntingly on a 17-gong instrument.  We have come to watch the nagadaw dancing. A nagadaw is the medium of a nat. He (or she) will be plied with money, cigarettes and, eventually alcohol, then whatever s\he says will really be the nat speaking. Here comes one now, she is in pale blue powered with sequins. A helper gives her two cigarettes. She smokes both at the same time. Next she accepts notes (money) and drinks in cans. All this time, the band is playing ever louder and faster, she is whirling, Oh – she has noticed a bottle of whisky and a bottle of brandy on a table. Quick as a flash she gulps some down. Now she offers it to a whole row of women. I wonder if she will come this way? 

I couldn’t think why they insisted on having this nat pwe at this time every year, because it always rains. But then I learn this was why the Buffalo nat paraded up and down each lane. It was to get rain. I’m happy for the crops, but will we get out? Win San comforts me by saying a couple of bullock carts would be able to pull us out. That could be worth a photo.

A man is eager for us to see the monastery and of course we agree. We climb the stairs and a monk opens a substantial locked screen door. Standing inside are four gold-leaf-covered standing Buddha statues. Two are familiar because they are depicted as living in the time of the 13^th century Buddha Gaudama. The other two, one very tall, are most unusual because they wear crowns. We were told they dated from the time of the previous Buddha, Dipinkara, in the 8^th century. Apparently the government would like them to go into a museum. So far the monks’ wishes have prevailed.