Ko Gyi Kyaw Nat Festival: Offerings to the nat

We enter a large hall. At one end is an area enclosed by bars and locked gates. Only special people are allowed in. On a raised stage four nats are stationed. The nat on the right is Ma Bo Mae, the middle two are Princess Manisithu with Prince Wailuwaddy. The most important and the nat we have come so far to see is Ko Gyi Kyaw seated on his imposing black and golden horse.

On every table we pass, Ko Gyi Kyaw’s offerings are on display. Some nats like pork or beef, but he favours chicken and there they sit roasted and ready to eat. They are complete with neck and head – only the feathers have gone.

A woman beside me starts shaking violently and is falling into a trance. Her friend relieves her of the bottle of Grand Royal Whisky she is carrying (for the nat) in case she drops it. The shaking and trance are not due to the whisky, because I notice the bottle is still unopened.

Loud music heralds a nagadaw. All the nagadaws I have seen before were men dressed up and made up as women. However, at this pwe all the nagadaw appear to be women and some are even as old as me. One starts to dance and people inside the enclosure pin money on her bodice and headdress. She wafts around a golden pheasant and golden bowl in deep bows and imperious hand movements. Someone gives her a cigarette. So far alcohol has not featured. The drums beat ever more enthusiastically and the faithful inside and outside the enclosure rush forward with bouquets of Eugenia. The nagadaw waves the leaves over the orchestra and then pulls off her scarf giving way to another dancer. 

I wonder why some women are helping others don a long sequined skirt and scarf. I learn that because this pwe is so important, nagadaws from many parts of the country have come to dance for Ko Gyi Kyaw and it seems they must wear particular gear to do so.

Chicken is a favourite with Ko Gyi Kyaw

Photos by Win Kyaing